In the kitchen – Chef Corrado Assenza


If I may, I highly recommend you watch Vol.4, Episode 2 of Netflix’ “The Chef’s Table.” It is dedicated to the Sicilian Pastry Chef Corrado Assenza, from his Caffè Sicilia in Noto, Sicily.

I loved everything that was presented from his approach to baking; the treasures that came out of his kitchen such as granita, gelato, almond cookies, brioche and so much more; and his insistence of high quality products and making almost everything by hand, one by one.

And then I smiled a big smile when he spoke about apricot jam (marmellata di albicocche). He spoke about it with so much tenderness almost as tender as the jam itself and just the way I think about it. He said it was the first jam a child tasted,  as it was the case for my son; the one that had to be made at home, as we do; and of course, bringing the amount of sugar to a minimum to enhance the natural flavour of the apricot.

If I may, you can find many apricot jam recipe on Fig & Lemon: Apricot & Rose Jam, Apricot and Vervena Jam, Apricot Jam with brown sugar, Jam with small apricots, among others.

He concluded by speaking of living a life of quality and simplicity, the same way he approaches his kitchen. I liked that very much.

Photo: Gelato al basilico e zafferano/mandorla/limone, Caffè Sicilia, Noto – via Passione Gourmet, Italia.



The taste of Damascus – The Atlantic

Photo from the article “Remembering the taste of Damascus” by Tamara Al Rifai, recently published in The Atlantic (25 March 2018) A wonderfully written article.

Personally, when I think of Damascus, I think of the scent of Jasmine, and fresh apricot jam, and amazing plates of Mezzeh served with a smile, and coffee at small stores in the old market, and oh! that amazing lunch I had in a tiny restaurant where they served the best Fatti Dajjaj (Chicken Fatti) made with bread, chicken, and rice, everything soaked in yoghurt with nuts and pomegranate… And of course chocolates, no one could go to Damascus without buying chocolates from Ghraoui (now in Beirut and elsewhere), yes… and the Baklava … Now I will stop. Suffices to say that Damascus was a wonderful place for anyone who liked good food served with a smile. One day, yes one day, all will be well. again.

Nawruz mubarak from our kitchen to yours!

!نوروز مبارک   —   Nawruz mubarak!

Happy Persian New Year from our kitchen to yours.

The Haft Sin, the seven offerings that start with the letter “s” (س) and some more, are all set-up to welcome the new year. This year, we set it up wishing the world well, with a special thought towards the ones who continue to bare the brunt of senseless violence and war.

An apple so that the world may always be beautiful and healthy.

Greens and flowers marking a peaceful renewal and the arrival of Spring.

Dried fruits so that love and wisdom may imbue the hearts of all.

Vinegar celebrating age and granting the world patience. We need it so much.

Sumak, the colour of sunrise so that tolerance and acceptance prevail against brutality.

Garlic for medicine so that the sick and wounded may heal, and hurting hearts as well.

Coins for the wealth of wisdom and the generosity of compassion.

And the mirror (silver plate) and the candle to bring light into the hearts and remove hatred.

Eggs for the fertility of the earth, the body and the mind, towards peace.

Sweet pastry so that words may always be kind.

And of course, a book of Hafez’s poetry so that every day, life may be celebrated with beauty.

Thank you.


Jamming, preserving and pickling…

I never thought I would actually ever prepare jam, but I did and I still do regularly. believe me, once you make your own jam, you will never buy the market variety ever again. This has been my experience.


So let me start from the beginning and continue with a few tips and recipes.

Why I had to learn

Everything started on a cold November day in Tashkent, Uzbekistan. We had arrived in late October and the first snowflakes were appearing followed by those amazing deep bleu skies and very cold winds. I was new to the place and I was exploring the various food markets.

As the weather got colder, the fruits and vegetables available got fewer. The tomatoes and apples I saw in October had virtually disappeared by early December. There was almost nothing green… I was at a loss of what to feed my then almost two-year old son. And I was dreaming of juicy mangos and fresh tomatoes. I could almost feel the tanginess of lemon when I concentrated enough.

By January, all that was available were onions and potatoes. Piles and piles of them. My only consolations were canned tomatoes and honey.

By early March, colours finally started coming back in the market.


I had gotten the first whiff of them when I saw the apricot tree bloom in the garden. We will have apricots I thought! And indeed we did. By April we had gathered more than 20 kilos of apricots and if you walked under the tree, you would get tipsy just from the smell of the ones that had fallen on the ground.

As the garden filled with flowers, so did the market with fresh ingredients. After the apricots, came the strawberries, the plums, the cherries and mountains and mountains of raspberries. By June, there were gigantic melons and watermelons sold on the side of the road near our house.


And the vegetables were plentiful as well, from tomatoes to cucumbers to herbs of all sorts. And in the garden, the mint that had been a small dried branch that I had, I admit, dismissed during the winter days, had bloomed into a large bush generously providing shade and a most wonderful scent.

And that is when I started doing research on jams and conserves and pickling, and all sorts of tips related to the preservation of fresh fruits and vegetables. And as I did so, I realized that everyone around me was doing the same. Sugar became a sought after commodity and would fly off the shelves fast. Limits were even placed on how much sugar each customer could buy. But that year, I managed.

I made jam with almost all the fruits I could find: apricots, strawberries, raspberries and cherries. I set some fruit syrup on the side to be used in winter for baking cakes and muffins, and waffles. I even tried tomato jam! I also pickled lemons and more.


I even made raspberry vinegar! I should try doing it again. (Mix fresh raspberries with white apple vinegar in a glass bottle. Place in a dark place for four weeks and it is ready!)

I have since become more comfortable in making jams and preserves, and even tried my hand at making Chutney. I wished I had done that before.

Here a few recipes you may enjoy from Fig & Lemon.


Making jam I realized is easy, really easy. All you need are fresh ingredients, glass jars and a little bit of time.

Before you embark on making jam, here are a few tips you may find useful:

– Do not mix excessively during cooking or the jam may become too liquid and the pieces of fruit could disintegrate.
– To know if it is done, place a few drops of the jam on a cold plate and tilt it. If the liquid runs, it is not done.
– To prepare a glass jam container: simply pour boiling water in the container and rinse with that water. Then place it open side up until it dries. The cover should preferably be made of glass.
– Use a disposable cloth to clean the rim of the container after filling it with jam. Do not use a wet reusable cloth as it could encourage the formation of bacteria.
– Jam made this way can stay up to a year in the fridge.

Jam is easy to make and once you have mastered the technic and gotten a feel for how each fruit gently lets out its natural sweetness, you can be inventive.

popovers upside down

For example, apricot jam is one of the easiest to make as the fruit stays together. There is no need to let it sit in sugar and it cooks in just about 25 minutes. No need to stir it too often. Strawberries and raspberries are more delicate so you may want to stir very gently. Figs require they be left in sugar for at least an hour before cooking and you must stir continuously during the 20 minutes of cooking. The best part is the syrup they produce, and you can place them in separate jars to be used as natural sweetners when baking. See here the recipe for strawberry jam and syrup, that can be applied to many other fruits.


And do not hesitate to be inventive. Think about mixing ingredients as though you were walking into a scented garden. Think of verbena with apricots or lavender with figs or even rose with fig. Avoid using essences, and only use fresh ingredients. Use thyme or rosemary, and spices too like cardamon as in this Persian carrot jam made with rosewater and cardamon, which I replicated with peach.

You can also replace white sugar with brown sugar either fully or in proportions (3/4rds brown for 1/4rd white). If you use only brown sugar, use less than 75% of what the original recipe calls for (eg: use 750 gr of brown sugar instead of one kilo of white sugar for one kilo of fruits). See this apricot jam with brown sugar for more explanations.

Unlike jam, marmelade is more difficult to make. The term marmelade only applies to citrus fruits. I made lemon marmelade without using any chemicals or artificial hardeners, and it came out fine. The process is however more assiduous than simple jam. But try it, it is really worth it!


And you need not to only make sweet jams. You can prepare a wonderful peppery jam with blackberry and rosemary, or a spicy tomato jam. Both are wonderful on toasts with white cheese.

Preserves and chutney

This for me was the next step after making jam. The process is a tad more complicated, but it is still doable with the right ingredients.


The first time I made chutney I was extremely careful in measuring the ingredients and cooking just as the instructions said. Then I relaxed and realised that a lot had to do with the aroma as the chutney gets made. The latter is the way I always cook, but since it was a first for me, I wanted to be careful. Here is the recipe for mango chutney, and it can be replicated for other fruits such as figs or even plums.


Preserves are not hard either but you need time. For example, to make Moroccan Leemon M’raqqad, you just need lemons and a lot salt. After that, time does the rest.

Further than jam and preserves

Once you have homemade jam or preserves in the fridge, the world is yours! or almost…

You can make wonderful sweet dishes such as Sachertorte with homemade apricot jam, or pain perdu in the oven or apple tart using strawberry syrup instead of sugar. And if you have some time in the morning, try these wonderful upside down popovers with apricot jam.

And of course you can be creative with yoghurt. Just add some fruit syrup to plain yoghurt and you can make a delightful homemade strawberry yoghurt, and it comes out naturally pink!

On the salty side, many dishes can also be prepared and really fast since the chutney or the preserved lemon will add so much flavour! Try these delicate asparagus (or should it be asparagi?) cooked in saffron topped with mango chutney, or this Mediterranean red snapper with cherry tomatoes and Moroccan preserved lemons.

There is so much more you can do. I have only listed a few recipes and you can find more on the website. Be creative and try your hand! Let me know as I would love to hear from you.

Thank you.


Pain au raisin – raisin bread

I love making bread. This time it came out really nice and I am so glad.

I started making bread when I lived in India as it was hard to find bread aside from sliced toast, and of course, as every one, I made Naan and other Indian breads at home. But I wanted the feel of a baguette, still my favourite breakfast with salted butter and homemade jam. So I started making my own bread. It took some time and some calibrating depending on if it was monsoon season or not. Actually during the monsoon, the bread came out almost perfect since the humidity and the heat greatly helped make the dough rise and the bread always came out soft on the inside and with a deliciously crispy crust.


Since I moved to Mexico I have had trouble making bread. It either came out too dry, or the dough did not rise, or something or the other went wrong. I thought it may be the yeast. So the last time I was in Paris I bought several boxes of baker’s yeast and… it seems  that this time it worked or maybe it was just that I did something right!

Here a nice and easy recipe that anyone can do. You do not need a kneading machine, or a bread machine, or any kind of machine. As with most everything I cook, I use my hands and kneading becomes a meditation experience.

I have included all the stages commonly associated with bread-making (le pétrissage, la levée, le façonnage et la cuisson) and a few tips. I hope it will convince you to try.

Stage zero: getting the ingredients ready
1- In a small bowl mix one cup of tepid water with one envelope of rising baker’s yeast. Mix with a spoon until the yeast is completely diluted. Set aside.
2- In a larger bowl place three cups of flour (white or whole or mixed – you can vary the kind of flour and adjust as you see fit) and one teaspoon of sea salt (gros sel). Mix well by hand letting the flour and the salt run through your fingers (the salt can have a contrary effect on the yeast so make sure the salt is mixed thoroughly with the flour). Add one tablespoon of olive oil and mix again by hand.

Stage one: Le pétrissage – kneading
1- In the larger bowl, slowly add the cup of tepid water and knead the dough as you go along. Bring the knead from the sides to the middle gently for at least 10 minutes.
2- Then start kneading inside the bowl. Make sure you insert pockets of air as you work the dough so that it may rise faster. Knead for at least 15 minutes. (If you feel it is too dry, add a little bit of water. If you feel it is too wet, just add a bit of flour.)


Stage two: La levée – raising
1- Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a bowl covered with a cotton clothe made humid with warm water. Place it in a warm place in the kitchen, the higher the temperature the better. (I generally place it under a lamp, it works.)
2- Leave the dough to rise for at least an hour. It should double in volume.


Stage three: Le façonnage – shaping
1- After one hour, knead the dough on a floured surface making sure you create air pockets as you knead. The best way is simply to fold the dough.
2- At this point start adding the raisins (or other dry ingredients) a little at the time and keep folding the dough.
3- Arrange the dough in the shape you desire: baguette, little baguettes, round shaped, etc.
4- With a sharp knife, make some indentations on the top of the dough.
5- Let it rest for another 30 minutes to an hour.


Stage four: La cuisson – baking
1- At least 15 minutes before you start baking the bread, heat up the oven to 250º C. Place a deep baking dish filled with water at the bottom of the oven . This will insure that the air in the oven is not too dry.
2- Place the dough in the oven and bake for 10 minutes at 250º c. (You may want to splash a little bit of water at the bottom of the oven to create some steam just before you insert the dough for baking.)
3- Then lower the temperature to 210º c. and continue baking the bread for 15 minutes.
4- Finally, lower the temperature to 190º c. and let it bake for 5 to 10 minutes. This last stage is important as it will enable the bread to remain soft on the inside with a nice and crispy crust.
5- Once out of the oven, let it cool on a rack. It is important so that the bread does not “sweat.”


Enjoy immediately with salty butter or any way you want. 

A ginger story

“I am an urban creature, born in a city,” Rabindranath Tagore said about himself. And yet, he composed some of the most stirring poems about nature and gardens and love.

“Your smile, my love, like the smell of a strange flower,
is simple and inexplicable.” – Tagore

If I may be so bold as to paraphrase him, I happen to also be an “urban creature;” perhaps the reason why I am so humbled when I manage to grow anything; and in this case, ginger.

I planted a small piece of ginger root about four years ago in a large pot with good soil, and since, it has been giving, most generously, long leaves while extending its roots.


I remain at awe when I take out the roots and gently place them under running water. The pink and white shades of the ginger slowly emerge and release a most enchanting fragrance.


Discovering ginger…

I actually discovered fresh ginger root rather late. It was when I started to do some “real” cooking while a graduate student in New York City. Before that, I had only known the dried powder variety most common in stores in Paris, where I grew up. At home, it was only used when making Moroccan food and only the dry powder. I had never seen a ginger root before that.

I discovered it with Asian food, especially Japanese. The first time I ventured into eating the raw ginger that is served along with sashimi, it seemed that a new wonderland of taste had opened up. Years later, when I lived in India it had become a constant in the kitchen. In New Delhi, I bought it regularly from an toothless perpetually smiling gentleman who sat on the ground with mounts of ginger and lime. He always added some extra roots for me…

So good for you…

According to Ayurveda principles, ginger stimulates the digestive system and thus helps in cleansing the system of “ama.” “Ama” is food residues that go undigested and can harm your health when it builds up. Ginger is a great remedy in case of constipation, and it also helps reduce inflammation and the effects of nausea. It is a traditional remedy for morning sickness for pregnant women in many parts of Asia.

How to…

On the technical side, ginger can be grown outdoors as well as indoors. It should receive plenty of light. In winter, the plant tends to slow down while the roots are still growing gently inside the soil. The plant should be brought indoors if the temperature drops below 10º c. In this case, I just leave it on a table in the kitchen next to the window so that it may get some natural light. It does fine.

I harvest the roots every three months or so, and then replant a small root with a stem attached in the same pot.



Many recipes in fig & lemon contain ginger, and not just recipes inspired from Asia. If you put “ginger” in the search square provided on the right hand side of the screen, you will get more than 50 recipes.


Of course it goes very well with any fish dish such as tuna with honey and ginger, wild salmon with rosemary and ginger, or Mediterranean fish. You may also want to try it with rose petals such as this recipe for sardines with ginger, mango and rose petals.


It can also be added to chicken, as this delicious Thai chicken cooked gently in the oven with ginger, lemon and honey; as well as with meat, as with this Persian ground beef cooked with the spice mix Adviyeh.

And of course, almost all Indian dishes contain ginger such as the soothing Sattvic Dahl, destined to bring you tranquility of the mind; along with chutneys, such as this delicious mango chutney.


Eaten raw it is also delicious. It can be sprinkled on salads or a soothing fruit platter. The latter is wonderful if you decide to go on a 24 hour fruit only diet, one thing you may try doing from time to time to cleanse and re-caliber your digestive system. I do so regularly, especially after a long trip when inevitably one’s digestive system gets slightly confused.


Oh and I almost forgot. It is a delight when added to soups, especially carrot soup. It goes very well with sweet potato or any gourd soup for that matter, such as pumpkin or squash.


A wonderful way to cleanse your system is also what I called feel good tea,  not a very original name but it is exactly what it does. I make it regularly when I feel off center physically or mentally! It helps balance out your system and it is most soothing. You need not be off center to drink it though…

Flower in a strange land…

Ginger is a constant now in the kitchen and I am grateful I was able to harvest some fresh roots this morning. It is a resilient plant and its roots grow very fast. Try and plant some. If I, as an “urban creature” can do it, I am sure anyone can.

“An unknown flower in a strange land
speaks to the poet:
‘Are we not of the same soil, my lover? ‘” – Tagore.

As urban creatures, are we not indeed?